ÉPOPLI

Fashion History · 1970s

1970s fashion — Handcraft and synthetic fabrics in one decade

1970~1979

Snapshot of three generations of men · December 1973
Snapshot of three generations of men · December 1973Infrogmation of New Orleans · CC BY 2.0 · Original source

Contrasting ways of dressing coexist

1970s fashion encompasses craft expression and synthetic fabrics, the practical wrap dress and striking disco style. One color or trouser shape cannot describe the entire decade. Consider daytime and evening, work and leisure. Establish date and purpose, then distinguish fabric, decoration and ease. Rather than see contrasting styles as contradictions, consider how different ways of living produced clothes in the same period. The apparent variety becomes clearer in context.

Black silk Ungaro trouser suit worn by Lauren Bacall · 1973
Black silk Ungaro trouser suit worn by Lauren Bacall · 1973Museum at FIT · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Original source

Wrapping and adjusting the garment

The wrap dress forms a garment by wrapping and fastening it around the body. In 1970s fashion, examine how the front panels overlap and where they secure, not just the waistline. Diane von Furstenberg's 1974 design is an important example. A particular designer's success should not be confused with the invention of wrapping itself. Separating construction from the spread of a design clarifies the relationship between technique and consumption.

Printed dress by Paco Rabanne · 1973
Printed dress by Paco Rabanne · 1973Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Original source

Clothes connecting day and evening

The wrap dress and disco style suggest different situations within 1970s fashion. Changing accessories and shoes to adapt an everyday garment is one way to consider its versatility. Reflective materials and decoration create effects in nighttime spaces. Asking where and how clothing is seen makes design choices more specific. Instead of a simple split between comfortable and elaborate clothes, examine fastening, material, movement and lighting separately. The same garment can make different impressions according to styling.

Fashion show in the Canary Islands · 1973
Fashion show in the Canary Islands · 1973FOTO:Fortepan — ID 30460: Adományozó/Donor: Schiffer Pál. archive copy at the Wayback Machine · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Original source

Surfaces shaped by light and movement

Satin and sequins are useful materials to examine in disco style because they reflect light. Looking at 1970s fashion, consider how movement might change the surface beyond the sheen captured in a still photograph. Check material descriptions rather than identify fabric from sparkle alone. Stage costume, club clothing and ordinary evening wear are not interchangeable. A powerful image does not necessarily represent common dress. Read the source's purpose to understand the extent of a style.

Two models photographed in Kuwait · 1973
Two models photographed in Kuwait · 1973FOTO:Fortepan — ID 44696: Adományozó/Donor: Schiffer Pál. archive copy at the Wayback Machine · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Original source

Handcraft and ready-to-wear

Patchwork, crochet and embroidery are important to the surfaces of 1970s fashion. Alongside everyday structures such as the wrap dress, they show a decade not governed by one material or production method. Distinguish a handmade appearance from documented handwork: ready-to-wear can use patterns and ornament that evoke craft. Compare the museum's recorded techniques with the visual impression. A natural-looking appearance need not reveal the actual production process, an important distinction when reading fashion images critically.

Poncho worn in New Orleans · November 1973
Poncho worn in New Orleans · November 1973Barbara Spengler · CC BY 2.0 · Original source

Trouser suits and changing activities

Women's trouser suits also matter to 1970s fashion as clothing associated with broader choices for work and activity. Concentrating only on disco style can hide these everyday changes. Examine jacket length, torso ease and shirt combinations, not simply the presence of trousers. Consider how elements associated with menswear change in women's outfits. Wearing a particular garment does not establish an individual's values. Social context and personal choice are related but not identical.

Model Zsuzsa Takács photographed in London · 1973
Model Zsuzsa Takács photographed in London · 1973FOTO:Fortepan — ID 30427: Adományozó/Donor: Schiffer Pál. archive copy at the Wayback Machine · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Original source

Continuing into the next decade

After examining the wrap dress and disco style in 1970s fashion, compare the power suits and sportswear of the 1980s. Practicality and visual presence continue in different ways. Change is not simultaneous, and earlier fabrics and structures persist. Separate purpose, proportion and the images through which fashion circulates to see both continuity and difference. Read a decade as clothing for varied lives rather than one forceful retro look. This reveals the choices of production and consumption behind fashion's surface.