ÉPOPLI

Fashion History · 1960s

1960s fashion — Boutiques, streets and new directions in fashion

1960~1969

Marimekko dress designed by Annika Rimala · 1965
Marimekko dress designed by Annika Rimala · 1965Photographer for the Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art · CC0 · Original source

A decade with more than one fashion

1960s fashion includes composed elegance, the miniskirt, space-age imagery and later hippie styles. Youth culture matters, but cannot explain every garment. Rather than combine undated sources into a single representative look, distinguish manufacture dates and occasions. Change varies in pace and direction within a decade. Examine short lengths, new materials, colors and patterns separately to see construction beyond a familiar revival image. Recognizing variety is the starting point.

Mondrian dress by Yves Saint Laurent · 1965
Mondrian dress by Yves Saint Laurent · 1965dalbera · CC BY 2.0 · Original source

Length and overall proportion

The miniskirt is among the defining garments of 1960s fashion, yet hem length alone does not explain an outfit. Torso length, shoulder shape, shoes and exposed legs contribute together. Look at the entire ensemble rather than isolate the skirt. The same length can look different with changes in ease or fabric. Short skirts do not all share one cut or social meaning. After learning a familiar name, read the differences between individual garments.

Dress by Isabelle Allard · c. 1965
Dress by Isabelle Allard · c. 1965Daderot · CC0 · Original source

Boutiques and new consumers

Designers such as Mary Quant and boutiques helped bring the tastes of youth culture toward the center of 1960s fashion. With the miniskirt, ask not only who designed it but who selected it and where they encountered it. Fashion does not move only downward from couture to a mass audience. Streets, music and everyday consumption also influence one another. Instead of attributing every change to one person, examine relationships between design, distribution and consumers.

Jean Shrimpton at Derby Day · 1965
Jean Shrimpton at Derby Day · 1965Associated Press · Public domain · Original source

The impression of new materials

Materials such as PVC can be considered alongside futuristic imagery in 1960s fashion. To understand changing tastes within youth culture, examine surface sheen and the way fabric holds shape as well as color and length. A shiny photograph does not establish a particular material; check the museum record. New materials did not eliminate older textiles. Different fabrics could serve different purposes, prices and tastes simultaneously. Connect technology and fashion imagery through the information about actual garments.

Printed dress by Lilly Pulitzer · c. 1965
Printed dress by Lilly Pulitzer · c. 1965Photographer for the Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art · CC0 · Original source

Color and pattern in menswear

Where the miniskirt strongly signals changes in womenswear, music and popular culture also expanded the use of color and pattern in menswear. This is why 1960s fashion should not be explained through women alone. Compare jacket, shirt and trouser proportions, distinguishing stage costumes from everyday clothing. A famous musician's photograph demonstrates the transmission of fashion but does not represent everyone. Reading circulating imagery alongside construction makes fashion's pathways more visible.

Printed silk dress by Vera Maxwell · c. 1965
Printed silk dress by Vera Maxwell · c. 1965Staff photographer, Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art · CC0 · Original source

A different direction late in the decade

Later hippie styles in 1960s fashion offer choices different from earlier futuristic imagery. Youth culture did not possess a single taste or set of values. Compare materials, decoration and the amount of ease around the body. Specific descriptions of fabric form and making are clearer than the abstract word freedom. Do not force every movement into the period's strongest representative image. Dividing the decade into phases while noting coexistence makes its changes easier to follow.

Saint Laurent cocktail dress with bead and sequin embroidery · c. 1965
Saint Laurent cocktail dress with bead and sequin embroidery · c. 1965Mabalu(photograph), Yves Saint Laurent (dress). · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Original source

Elements continuing into the 1970s

After studying the miniskirt and youth culture in 1960s fashion, turn to craft expression, disco and varied daily clothing in the 1970s. A new decade does not replace all that preceded it. Some features continue while others change through new materials and contexts. Compare length, volume, fabric and routes of circulation separately. Consider who proposes a fashion and how it spreads as well as its shape. Fashion history also concerns the people who choose and display clothes.